Recognised on the global fashion stage as the city where innovative talent is given a unique platform, London Fashion Week 2018 did not disappoint. The very fact that London is one of four iconic cities associated with the bi-annual extravaganza speaks for the calibre in which it stands. While Paris focuses on haute couture and Chanel-inspired chic, Milan is home to the cool and extravagant and New York experiments with avant-garde design, London has become synonymous as the seedbed for new fashion talent. Check out the new kids on the block for 2019…
An exciting and bold new luxury womenswear brand by emerging Northern Irish designer Hope Macauley.
Hope creates large expressive collaged paintings and transforms them into prints, combined with detailed beadings and knit to create her garments. She also creates her own embellishments, inspired by her passion for ceramic making, using Fimo clay and various fabrics and beads combined together. Hope’s graduate collection, A Surreal Rome, which featured at Graduate Fashion Week in London, is not a representation of reality but a world in which you may find in your dreams, inspired by the history, myths and art of Rome. Hope Macauley garments are busy, bold and colourful experiences, each telling a wonderfully surreal story.
A recent fashion design graduate from the University of Central Lancashire, Rose Connor’s collection focuses on the beauty and importance of up-cycling and minimising waste within the fashion industry. Rose demonstrates this by taking a common household item, the shower scrunchie, and changes the structural property with intense heat, in order to make a new sustainable fabric.
Maddy is a recent fashion design graduate from Edinburgh College of Art. Her specialism lies in textile and material development, exploring tactility and three dimensional surfaces for fashion. Her graduate collection took inspiration from beauty in the mundane and the human desire to collect, focusing on her own childhood collections. Juxtaposing the traditional ornate patterns found in the miniature Persian rugs of her childhood doll’s house with the bright, structured plastics of her hotel soap packet collection allowed Maddy to create unusual and unexpected surfaces that then informed her packet like silhouettes.
Made up of countless ever-moving pieces, as well as unusually oversized and over- decorated colours, shapes and textures decorated with wire spikes, Giebultowski Jewellery’s ‘AlmostWhite’ marks a departure from organic shapes and inspirations towards geometry and architecture. Large size pieces are colourless and made of hundreds of repeatable elements cut out of plastic milk bottles. Over 1200 plastic bottles were used to make this collection. Most of other components are also recycled from previous works.
Irish designer Richard Malone, 26, is fast becoming London’s go-to designer for resourcefulness with no shortage of rebellion. His last two shows have been runaway successes of London Fashion Week. 2017 saw him shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, be commissioned by the New York’s Museum of Modern Art to create a custom piece for its first fashion exhibition in 70 years, and subsequently have said piece (a hand-crafted jumpsuit) acquired by MoMa for their permanent collection. The acquisition is one of only two fashion additions to MoMa’s archive in history – the other, an Issey Miyake piece in 1967.
Katie Ann McGuigan
Irish designer Katie Ann McGuigan, winner of the AW17 Merit Award, showcased her heavily printed and vibrant collection at the London Film Museum and with films, live music and more, the event was a demonstration of Katie’s growth and raw talent. The London based womenswear brand, headed up by Katie herself, has established a signature style consisting of expressive graphics and energetic cuts.
Simone Rocha has evolved into an internationally renowned and award-winning brand. Her collections have gained her some of the most prestigious stockists in the world including Dover Street Market, Browns, Colette in Paris, Ikram in Chicago, Bergdorf Goodman and 10 Corso Como in Milan, Seoul and Shanghai. Her SS19 collection was very much an evolution of Rocha’s aesthetic, but a new degree of precision stood out in a ritualistic and ceremonious catwalk show.
Images courtesy of Fashion’s Finest