The Council of Irish Fashion Designers held their Autumn Winter 2018 presentation at the Peter Mark Style Club in Dublin on Thursday 30th August.
The CIFD Autumn 2018 collections represent a sustainable approach to fashion based on quality and well managed production runs and cover a range of disciplines – fashion, knitwear, accessories, millinery and jewellery.
The designers, (of which a number of former Irish Fashion Innovation Award winners and finalists featured), employ excellent creative skills and production techniques to ensure that each collection is developed with a clear customer focus and judicious attention to detail. Several are inspired by a contemporary approach to heritage and craftsmanship.
Autumn 2018 is a season of rich colours accented several softer and surprising shades, offering trans seasonal lifestyle garments that will become collector’s favourites. The colours give added dimension to softly textured yarns and luxurious fabrics.
The CIFD Collections presentation is supported by Peter Mark and the Design Crafts Council of Ireland. Member’s collection’s showcased at the presentation included:
1. Helena Malone
2. Niamh O’Neill
3. KDK /Keira & Dairine Kennedy
4. Sarah Murphy
6. Clare O’Connor
7. Ballyboy Design / Siobhan Quinn
8. Aoife Kirwan
9. FAO Millinery / Freya Oatway
10. Wendy Louise Designs / Wendy Knight
11. Aoife Harrison
12. Davina Lynch
13. Deb Fanning
14. Leonora Ferguson
15. Heidi Higgins
16. Eadach / Sara O’Neill
17. Delphine Grandjouan
18. David O’Malley
19. Hazel Greene
20. Caroline Mitchell
21. Niamh Daniels
22. Helen Hayes
A unique feature from the presentation this year included a collaboration project where craft meets design. Several CIFD members collaborated with DCCOI craftspersons, using heritage skills and methods to provoke and inspire innovation, creativity and design.
Wendy Louise Knight (milliner) & Colm Bagnall (blacksmith)
Defying gravity through balanced design – hot forged industrial steel mesh combines with leather and wool felt for a distinctive piece of wearable millinery.
Niamh Daniels (accessories designer) & Ger Hassett, Ester Kelly, Ann Quinn (Headford lacemakers)
A heritage lace pattern printed on silk with images of lace bobbins and brown trout to tie in another aspect of Headford village – a fishing village.
Leonora Ferguson (milliner & accessories designer) & Dorota Majzer (lace maker & crochet artist)
Exploring a tension between those who hate to break with tradition and those developing old methods for modern designs, this work incorporates traditional motifs with layering, texture and 3D effects that fade out, disintegrate and merge into a wire lace, giving ground to new ways of working and thinking.
Siobhan Quinn/Ballyboy Design (fashion designer) & Mark Wilson (blacksmith & coppersmith)
Inspired by the birch tree in autumn – the cape is crafted from a single piece of pure wool Irish tweed, lined with a single sheet of iridescent shot silk and trimmed with a collarette of cream buckskin leather. Individual, hand cut, anodised green copper leaves (recycled from copper water cylinders) are hand riveted to the collarette, using bespoke rivets fashioned from copper roofing tacks. Their green colour is a result of the oxidisation of the copper by the water. Floating away from the base of the collarette are three single leaves hand stitched to the green tweed.
Freya Ann Oatway/FAO Millinery (milliner) & Ann Duggan (embroidery)
A sculptural headpiece using layers of sinamay and tulle, with silk embroidery for the design details. The shape employs the idea of the head towel as an accessory with the embroidery to convey the layers of masking used in ‘beauty’.
Margaret O’Connor (milliner) & James O’Toole blacksmith)
Modern iridescent pvc materials contrasting with ‘heritage’ metal are carefully attached to the hat to hold it softly onto the head. The design reflects mental health issues where the cracks and broken pieces combine together, as a whole, with the support of the bonded metal to shine brightly again.
Davina Lynch (milliner) & Cathy Hayden (basketmaker)
The inspiration for the piece comes from a reference in the Museum of Country Life to the women of the Aran Islands – knitting while walking with baskets on their heads to keep them steady. The Aran Cable Braid knitting stitch is used, in both basket weaving and knitting.
Delphine Grandjouan & Mary Hunter with quilting by Yvonne Whyte, Brenda Mohan, Aileen Hennigan, Marilyn Roantree, Sue Mulvihill, Helen Jacobsen, Joan Hayes with embroidery by Sheryl Cullen (Irish Patchwork Society & D3 Textile Group)
Vast structured bridal gown with full quilted skirt and embroidered top in soft white cotton duchesse satin, and shades of purple fading to mauve and silver. The inspiration is centered around the theme of the heart, its trials and tribulations, how it reverberates through everything we do, like the ripples on a lake and finds peace in a garden. The dress uses an echo/shadow quilting technique requiring approximately 200 hours for quilting the skirt with a further 36 hours of decoration using French knots and calico garden techniques.
Additional Collaborations included:
Jill de Burca (fashion designer) & Aoife Ludlow (textile artist designer)
A unique statement developed through an interplay between print, devore, hand dying and free stitch embroidery.
Helena Malone (goldsmith) & Angela Lavin (textile artist)
Born of a love for materials used in the different disciplines, a balance is struck between the density of precious silver and the airiness of delicate cotton to produce a structured neckpiece where one medium does not dominate the other. Layered and handstitched ethical organic cotton combines
and contrasts with distinctive forging, piercing, soldering and setting techniques in recycled silver
Caroline Mitchell (knitwear designer) & Dolores Dempsey (Mountmellick lace)
Knit, crochet embroidery & applique inspired by original pieces in the Mountmellick Lace Museum,(embroideries of blackberries, flowers, grapes, knitted fringing and the white denim base used for lacemaking)
Deb Fanning (milliner) & Mary Ann Browne (textile artist)
Flower Power is a hat inspired by the 1960’s movement, using machine embroidery and other textile skills to capture a snapshot of this cultural legacy.
Keira & Dairine Kennedy/KDK (accessories) and Caroline Ryan (textile artist)
Using two design aesthetics (geometric and abstract) to expand creativity within one fashion piece. A variety of print mediums including dip dying and screen printing are employed to achieve the look in a modern, fashionable and wearable way.
Hazel Greene (artist & accessories designer) & Jane Murtagh (blacksmith)
Silk twill sleeved wrap, featuring a digitally printed harts tongue leaf and a forged copper harts tongue leaf finished with verdegris patination, complete with a neck band of forged solid copper with gilded detail.
Aoife Harrison (milliner) & Friederike Girace (goldsmith)
‘From Sea to Sky’ is a wool felt shape trimmed with natural materials – dried seaweed, wood and feathers – all collected by Aoife Friederike. Shells found on the beach have been stamped onto this unique, organic headpiece that gives new life to the natural materials used.
Production : Eddie Shanahan for CIFD
Production assistant : Jacqui Turner
Hair styling : Suzie Dowling & Peter Mark Creative Team
Make up : Ivey Sullivan